Every trip nourishes with new experiences, new voices, smells, flavors, new hope. In return it’s an opportunity to unburden yourself of at least a little ignorance, anxiety, disappointment, and weariness. This being our second visit to Seoul, we had hoped to scratch a little below the surface-level-look at this magnificent city. Last time we did the big tourist attractions. This time we tried to settle into a routine, to just “live a little”, and enjoy the city as if it were home.

It’s been such a refreshing reminder that there are places where a healthy social contract and norms persist, even while evolving. Where modernization balances with respect for and preservation of the past, and the natural world. Where critical systems are prioritized, maintained and functional.

And where there are damn good tattoo artists, despite the art being technically illegal.

Coffee shops are EVERYWHER. Not just every block, but several on each block. I fell hard for the grapefruit tea with crushed ice from Paik’s Coffee.
Virtually every food establishment uses ordering kiosks, which brilliantly solve multiple issues: Translation, since there are images; one less person to take orders or manage a cash register; some stores are completely self-serve with no human staff, thanks to the kiosk.
  Twists on sign translation come out wonderfully quirky.
Bullet-rail runs with set-your-watch accuracy, to clean, well organized stations.
Look up for a reminder that you are firmly in the 21st century.
Every night is Friday and the energy is electric on the Jonggnak Street of Youth.
Modern worship…
in ancient temples of timeless belief. 
Spiritual guardians abound.
Indelible expressions of ancient symbols calm the chaos of today.

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