Romeiros de São Miguel

This is catholic country,
and the churches express that passion.
Like the worshippers they welcome, humble exteriors cloak expressions of the intricately divine mystery within.

On the Island of São Miguel there is another unique expression of faith: Romeiros (pilgrims). Every year for a week in March or April groups of men walk clockwise around the island visiting 100 churches. They sing or pray as they walk, wear unique cloaks and carry staffs adorned with the cross. This tradition started in 1522 when pilgrims marched to ask God for forgiveness after a devastating earthquake.

We were fortunate to be on the island when Romeiros were marching. We passed several groups while driving through wet fog and rain outside Ponta Delgada. Early on our last morning they walked passed our balcony singing. The echoing voices of two dozen men singing in worship while walking through deserted streets on pilgrimage was stunning.

Walking up to Santuário do Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres in Ponta Delgada, a panhandler gently took the €10 note and asked Jesus to bless me. Moments after stepping into this gilded space I quietly left. An evening service was starting, but the blessing before I entered was all I needed.